Surprisingly there were no trains connecting Prague with Germany. To get back to Marburg overland would have taken over 7 and a half hours by busing from Prague to Nuremburg and then getting the train from there. So it was definitely better to fly which took only about an hour from Prague to Frankfurt.
After awaking to 3 cell phone alarms going off simultaneously and a massive thunderstorm right over head, it was an early breakfast and then off to the airport. Saturday morning is very quiet in Prague so it was a quick trip through the cobbled streets alongside the tramlines.
Temperatures were definitely lower in Frankfurt - less than 20 degrees after mid 30's in Prague. Quite a relief really! And nice to be back in Marburg - it is such a pretty town.
And now for the final few days and it is back to winter in the land of the Long White Cloud.
Farewell Marburg!!!
Sunday, 26 July 2015
Saturday, 25 July 2015
Medieval Send Off
We were dragged kicking and struggling (yeah right) down to the bowels of Prague to a medieval dinner. Skulls adorned the dark cellar roofs and candles lit the way down the dark stone steps. We were entertained with dancers, fire eaters, sword fighters and minstrels. Desert included a shared smoke
Thursday, 23 July 2015
"Czech Switzerland"
A wonderful day walking through the National Park climbing up 300m to view fabulous limestone formations arch and restaurant wedged between the rocks. Then down to a river gorge and punting 2 sections. Just beautiful. A fabulous day to end our tour before heading back to Prague tomorrow.
Wasp Attack
From the sobering Terezin transit camp we headed into the trees and hills of limestone country on the Elba river. A couple of nasty wasps at morning coffee break zeroed in on Vladka's mum which has made us all very wary of wasps. A swarm of so called bot flies (looked different to ours) caused Dot and I to beat a hasty retreat from the top of a tower with magnificent 360 degree views where we had walked up onto the top of a hill.
A wander round the rose and terraced gardens of a castle on the Elbe (Laber river in Czech) and on to our renovated farmhouse for our next nights stay and a magnificent electrical storm to send us off to sleep!
A wander round the rose and terraced gardens of a castle on the Elbe (Laber river in Czech) and on to our renovated farmhouse for our next nights stay and a magnificent electrical storm to send us off to sleep!
Tuesday, 21 July 2015
Horse stud to WWII transit camp
Terezin Fortress, originally built in the 19th century to protect the Czech's from the Prussians but taken over by the Nazi's as a police prison and later a transit camp where over 2500 died. Perhaps the height of nazi depravity was to turn the larger section of the fortress into a model town with actors to show to the world via Red Cross and film how well the Jews were being looked after. The actors were then moved on to Auschwitz.
A less traumatic part of Czech history is the saving of the Kladruby horse line. Originally bred for nobility the herds were confiscated after WWII although a small herd of whites was maintained it was intended to liquidate the blacks. However in the 1930's a small remnant of blacks was rediscovered and the breed was revitalised.
A less traumatic part of Czech history is the saving of the Kladruby horse line. Originally bred for nobility the herds were confiscated after WWII although a small herd of whites was maintained it was intended to liquidate the blacks. However in the 1930's a small remnant of blacks was rediscovered and the breed was revitalised.
Monday, 20 July 2015
40,000 plus skeletons
40 to 70,000 human skeletons decorating the inside of a chapel as chandeliers, coat of arms, crosses, and in mounds of skulls and femurs perfectly arranged make a fascinating and macabre spectacle in the Kutná Hora (unesco) ossuary/chapel. Kutná Hora is wealthy from its silver mines so we supported the silver industry by 'investing' in some silver jewellery.
Before leaving Znojmo for Kutná Hora we checked out the wonderful acoustics in a simple little 11th century chapel next to the church of St Nicholas.
Before leaving Znojmo for Kutná Hora we checked out the wonderful acoustics in a simple little 11th century chapel next to the church of St Nicholas.
Mmmmmm that Moravian wine tasting
Wine tasting Moravian style is quite a different experience to kiwi wine tasting. After a couple of tastings we explored the wine cellar then were taken to a cosier cellar where a table was set up for 6 with a variety of meat, cheeses, bread and pickles. As we nibbled we were treated to some more tastings including a smokey Chardonnay (which had been mellowed in a burnt cask) and some reds made from imported French grapes.
This was a very relaxed evening after a visit to the unesco heritage castle of Českÿ Krumlow which was hot and crowded but beautiful with its mixture of baroque and Renaissance painted walls followed by a long drive.
This was a very relaxed evening after a visit to the unesco heritage castle of Českÿ Krumlow which was hot and crowded but beautiful with its mixture of baroque and Renaissance painted walls followed by a long drive.
Sunday, 19 July 2015
From Farmhouse to Castle
A day of contrasts.
We woke up in a reconstructed farmhouse in a tiny mountain village and went to sleep in a Castle Hotel. We walked along a bush clad mountain stream and walked through the sumptuous rooms of castle Hluboká. We had BBQ style lunch in a camping ground and dinner in the castle restaurant. Czech Republic has so much to offer!
We woke up in a reconstructed farmhouse in a tiny mountain village and went to sleep in a Castle Hotel. We walked along a bush clad mountain stream and walked through the sumptuous rooms of castle Hluboká. We had BBQ style lunch in a camping ground and dinner in the castle restaurant. Czech Republic has so much to offer!
Friday, 17 July 2015
Dem Bones
It may be an amazing Reliquary rediscovered in 1984 after being buried under the chapel floor of Bechov castle after WWII when Germans were evicted from Czech republic, but it's hard to believe the bones inside truly belong to St. John the Baptist.
However the bones inside the reliquary at the Tepla Premonstratensian monastery were sure to be genuine. The magnificent library and church were untouched during the communist era but the rest of the huge complex was used by Czech soldiers. It has now been refurbished to conference facility standards.
However the bones inside the reliquary at the Tepla Premonstratensian monastery were sure to be genuine. The magnificent library and church were untouched during the communist era but the rest of the huge complex was used by Czech soldiers. It has now been refurbished to conference facility standards.
Thursday, 16 July 2015
Cycling at Boží Dar
A glorious day cycling through the countryside around Bozi Dar - beautiful meadows and trees and all a nature reserve. It is the highest town in Central Europe at 1029m above sea level. Would be such a wonderful place to bring a family whether skiing or cycling.
Wednesday, 15 July 2015
Becherovka, Loket and Sauersack
After sampling the local Becherovka liquor we headed to the fascinating Loket castle with its 5 levels of dungeons with torture equipment and models. The castle has been lovingly reconstructed in true medieval style.
On the way to Bozi Dar we stopped at Sauersack, a forced labour camp during WWII. The remains of the factory and housing hidden among the trees are a sobering reminder of WWII atrocities.
On the way to Bozi Dar we stopped at Sauersack, a forced labour camp during WWII. The remains of the factory and housing hidden among the trees are a sobering reminder of WWII atrocities.
Tuesday, 14 July 2015
Mmmmm - A Massage
A 3 hour spa session which included the most fabulous 1 hour massage. We also chose a 15 min electo aerosol inhalation from a selection of 4 different treatments. It all took place in a beautiful white tiled 'hall' with a large pool in the module and various therapy rooms leading off to the side and up the stairs. All mirrors and shiny white tiles apart from a carved face in a rock wall overlooking it all.
Monday, 13 July 2015
The Promise of a Spa
Karlovy Vary, the home town of our guide, Vladka, was our destination today. This famous spa town named after King Charles IV Is the most beautiful town with its elegant villas, all differently decorated and adorned. We are looking forward to our spa tomorrow.
Cave and Castle
Once close to a Celtic settlement, the Koñeprusy caves were not only the hiding hole of forgers in the 15th century but also have unique limestone formations in the shape of roses plus the more usual stalactites and stalagmites.
In the late afternoon we were treated to 3 separate tours of the 14th century Karlstejn castle where Charles IV not only had a chapel in his bedroom but 3 others as well, one of which housed the Crown Jewels and the holy relics he loved to collect including the 6 fingers from St Johns left hand!
In the late afternoon we were treated to 3 separate tours of the 14th century Karlstejn castle where Charles IV not only had a chapel in his bedroom but 3 others as well, one of which housed the Crown Jewels and the holy relics he loved to collect including the 6 fingers from St Johns left hand!
Saturday, 11 July 2015
Exploring Prague
Prague castle, the Cathedral, Charles Bridge, the Museum of Torture and the Astronical clock in the Old Town Square were revealed by our marching feet. It was not only the huge crowds on the Charles Bridge which slowed our progress but also the many stalls of hand made glass and painted enamel earrings. Dinner on the river made a relaxing end to the day.
Zermatt to Prague
Friday. While Barry and Hauke climbed the 4160m Mt Breithorn, Dot and I caught the train to Zurich then flew on to Prague where we joined Vladka from True Czech Tours and Dot's friend, June. Barry and Hauke did cheat a little on their climb by catching the gondola to 3800m so they only had about 300m to climb!
The taxi ride from the airport in Prage to our hotel involved a police search of our vehicle as our route took us past the American embassy. That night we were treated to a night viewing of Prague from the palace and a quiet walk around the palace courtyards without the masses of people that would be there the next day!
The taxi ride from the airport in Prage to our hotel involved a police search of our vehicle as our route took us past the American embassy. That night we were treated to a night viewing of Prague from the palace and a quiet walk around the palace courtyards without the masses of people that would be there the next day!
Train to 3089 metres (Gornergrat)
Thursday.
Swiss technology is amazing as exemplified by the Gornegrat cog railway which takes you from Zermatt (about 800m) up to 3089m. From there we could see around 11 peaks over 4000m. The view was only spoilt by the number of people up there, the large number of trails carving up the mountain sides and at least 6 gondolas travelling high up a number of peaks. An amazing place to be and the variety of alpine flowers was staggering as we walked down the mountIn side to re catch the train.
Swiss technology is amazing as exemplified by the Gornegrat cog railway which takes you from Zermatt (about 800m) up to 3089m. From there we could see around 11 peaks over 4000m. The view was only spoilt by the number of people up there, the large number of trails carving up the mountain sides and at least 6 gondolas travelling high up a number of peaks. An amazing place to be and the variety of alpine flowers was staggering as we walked down the mountIn side to re catch the train.
Friday, 10 July 2015
Zermatt
Wednesday.
A Swiss version of Queenstown, overshadowed by the Matterhorn towering above all the other peaks, Zermatt lies in the valley with a river fed by glacier melt thundering through the middle of it. We walked up past some very old villages over 400 years old with little houses on stilts and slabs of granite on top of the stilts to stop the rats and mice getting into the grain and feed. It is all so manicured with gondola's and a railway going up to many high points.
A Swiss version of Queenstown, overshadowed by the Matterhorn towering above all the other peaks, Zermatt lies in the valley with a river fed by glacier melt thundering through the middle of it. We walked up past some very old villages over 400 years old with little houses on stilts and slabs of granite on top of the stilts to stop the rats and mice getting into the grain and feed. It is all so manicured with gondola's and a railway going up to many high points.
From Lake to Matterhorn
Tuesday.
Google map didn't show any lakes at Freiburg but we were assured that if we caught the #1 tram to the end of the line there was a lake. And sure enough there was a lovely little lake surrounded in trees where we could go for a swim - no cost. Then 4 hours later we got off the train in Zermatt, under the shadow of the Matterhorn.
Google map didn't show any lakes at Freiburg but we were assured that if we caught the #1 tram to the end of the line there was a lake. And sure enough there was a lovely little lake surrounded in trees where we could go for a swim - no cost. Then 4 hours later we got off the train in Zermatt, under the shadow of the Matterhorn.
Monday, 6 July 2015
Green Freiburg
Not only is Freiburg known as the warmest city in Germany, it is also the greenest, leading the way in sustainability.
Sunday, 5 July 2015
Cooling our Feet in Freiburg
37 degrees plus again but at least Freiburg has these little canals with fresh clean cold water running down them along the edge of the pavements.
Along with Kimberly, a PhD student from Barry's lab working here, we caught the cable car up to the top of Schauinsland where we visited an old silver mine which was responsible for making Freiburg so wealthy. It was so nice to get up into the Black Forest where the heat was not as intense.
Along with Kimberly, a PhD student from Barry's lab working here, we caught the cable car up to the top of Schauinsland where we visited an old silver mine which was responsible for making Freiburg so wealthy. It was so nice to get up into the Black Forest where the heat was not as intense.
Saturday, 4 July 2015
A Hot Train Ride to Freiburg
We thought we were clever going first class on an extremely hot day (37degrees plus) but the air-conditioning wasn't working.
Then it was about lesson #6 on how to use the trains here - when you book a train with a cheaper fare and you have to travel on that train - make sure you check the number of the train (time, destination and platform number are not necessarily relevant). We think the train we were booked on must have been moved to another platform at the last minute and we got on a Freiburg train that we thought was just running 10min late. There was an announcement but of course we couldn't understand the german. The conductor was not impressed but finally let us away with it.
Then it was about lesson #6 on how to use the trains here - when you book a train with a cheaper fare and you have to travel on that train - make sure you check the number of the train (time, destination and platform number are not necessarily relevant). We think the train we were booked on must have been moved to another platform at the last minute and we got on a Freiburg train that we thought was just running 10min late. There was an announcement but of course we couldn't understand the german. The conductor was not impressed but finally let us away with it.
Friday, 3 July 2015
37degrees plus in Marburg
Too hot to do much - except eat yummy salads with fresh raspberry dressing and join the crowds at the local lake. With sisterly support we ventured into the nudist section and hopefully made it look like it was no big deal. The swim was fabulous even if the water is a bit on the murky side!
Thursday, 2 July 2015
Overnight Cycle Trip via Grünberg
With both Dot and I being keener on cycle touring than city viewing, we poured over a Hessen bike map and the train time tables and decided to catch the train to Langsdorf, cycle to Grünberg and then cycle back to Giesen. We had no idea of the terrain or what to expect but part of it was on the Limes cycle way which follows the Roman wall from the Rhine to the Danube. We were following parts of the R6 and R7. There are so many cycle ways here it is unbelievable and the rail system serves so many places.
The train did stop at Langsdorf, a tiny tiny town, but we did manage to find a bakery and had a coffee whilst admiring some of the 300-500 year old buildings in the street. Our cycle route passed right through the middle of quite a few gorgeous little towns and was quite undulating - hard work in the +30degree heat. Grunsberg was at the highest point and had the most fabulous square and wasn't touristy in the slightest.
Grunsberg to Giesen was nearly all down hill - following the Wiseck river back to the Lahn. We were away early to avoid the heat and completed the trip with the most fabulous iced coffee in Giesen.
The train did stop at Langsdorf, a tiny tiny town, but we did manage to find a bakery and had a coffee whilst admiring some of the 300-500 year old buildings in the street. Our cycle route passed right through the middle of quite a few gorgeous little towns and was quite undulating - hard work in the +30degree heat. Grunsberg was at the highest point and had the most fabulous square and wasn't touristy in the slightest.
Grunsberg to Giesen was nearly all down hill - following the Wiseck river back to the Lahn. We were away early to avoid the heat and completed the trip with the most fabulous iced coffee in Giesen.
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